All MRP clutch kits: www.mrpltd.co.nz/product-category/clutch-kits/
MRP Twin plates: www.mrpltd.co.nz/product-category/twinplate-clutch-kits/
My kit in this video: www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/4agze-16v-20v-heavy-duty-clutch/
Organic clutches are the OEM standard. As the name suggests their base is of organic origin, usually a phenolic resin or compounded rubber together with cellulose as an organic friction material.
When they're well made organic clutches offer many advantages, which explains why they have been the OEM clutch disk material of choice for many decades. They offer very smooth and gradual engagement which means they are easy to operate and comfortable for daily use and stop and go traffic. They generate adequate friction over a a broad range of temperatures and have a minimal or no break in period.
So let's step things up by borrowing something from bulletproof vests and integrating it into our clutch. Kevlar! When in tensions, Kevlar is 5 times stronger than most steel alloys. This is how it stops bullets. But it can also make your clutch extremely durable and dramatically increase its lifespan. Kevlar clutch discs can withstand higher temps than most organics and will take a lot of hard usage, for example hard driving on the race track, but they absolutely hate stop and go traffic.
Kevlar has good burst strength and great wear resistance if used correctly but it also has a low coefficient of friction, which means it doesn't actually grab very hard. The upside to this is that it usually enables very smooth engagement, just like an organic, the downside is that it needs a very strong pressure plate with lots of clamping force to grab the flywheel without slipping. The final downside of Kevlar discs is that they must be carefully broken in before they can be used hard. Depending on the disc the break in period can be relatively long and ranges from 100 to 500 miles.
A metal clutch disc is also often called a ceramic clutch. Ironically, ceramic clutches actually contain very little ceramic in them, many don't have any ceramic in them at all. Instead the base material is usually copper or bronze or a mixture of both and then iron, steel, silicon, graphite, ceramic or any mix thereof added into in to further increase friction.
Copper and many other metals are excellent heat conductors which means that all metal clutch discs can tolerate extreme heats. It takes some very very extreme abuse to be able to fry a sintered metal clutch, which means you can let loose on the track with them. Unlike Kevlar, metal discs have a very high coefficient of friction, which means they can hold massive power even without a very strong pressure plate, but the downside is that you can forget smooth engagement. High friction means that sintered metal clutch discs grab strongly and abruptly, often with chattering and shuddering sounds and sensations accompanying engagement and disengagement.
But what if even a ceramic clutch isn't enough for you? Let's say you need to transfer something like 1000 hp and god knows how much torque onto your transmission. In that case you need sintered Iron!
The easiest way to understand sintered iron clutch discs is to think of them as ceramic clutches on steroids. They are extremely abrasive which means they will destroy most conventional freewheels. They can hold incredible amounts of power without slipping but their engagement is so sudden they're like a switch. On and off. This means it's next to impossible to use them on the street. On the upside they can take incredible amounts of abuse and it's nearly impossible to fry a sintered iron clutch.
When it comes to twin plate and multi plate clutch kits, they can do something single plate clutches can't and that is to increase the total surface area of the clutch disc. Multi plate clutch kits can do this by using more than one disc. By increasing the surface area multi plate clutches can retain a relatively low clamping force and abrasiveness, which means they can hold more power and torque while retaining OEM like driveability.
Another important distinction is sprung and unsprung clutches and clutches with and without a marcel spring. In general a sprung clutch with a marcel will be tolerable for street driving regardless of material, while a fully rigid clutch will be much better suited for racing only applications.
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#d4a #clutch #enginebootcamp
00:00 Intro
00:47 The Basics
04:17 The Materials
14:55 Multi plate
19:02 Sprung vs Unsprung
CLUTCH: Organic vs. Kevlar vs. Metal vs. Multi Plate CLUTCHES - in-depth COMPARISON
837 Weergaven 84K
All MRP clutch kits: www.mrpltd.co.nz/product-cate... MRP Twin plates: www.mrpltd.co.nz/product-cate... My kit in this video: www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/4agz...
Excellent video!
I can only thanks you for your amazing work. Awesome content dude!
This is the second of your videos I have watched. Again, Mad Props for simple no nonsense explanations of mechanical subjects. Good detail and accurate information. Well Done!!!!!
0:21 to 0:41 that's why I love this channel so much
Congratulations and thanks for these interesting video .
what about asbestos clutches i have a tractor and an international scout that have probably have one
good explanation, good audio
Thank you for also going into detail about how the clutch itself works; great video for people who are new to learning about cars :D
I don't like my leg so imma do a clutch that's 200% more over stock 0_0
Can i change the dual mass flywheel to an ridget one without increasing the wear on the trans when i use an sprung clutchdisc? (I have an 2l Diesel 4cyl. engine )
@driving 4 answers it is the Bmw m47 engine with the vp44 not with common rail Ok that are good news 😌👍 thank you
Which engine? If the clutch is sprung it won't damage anything, also most diesel transmissions are pretty strong already.
@driving 4 answers ok thank you so you say it does no damage to the trans? For my engine i didn't find a converson kit or a Performance dmf kit :(
There are DMF to Single mass kits for many engines out there.
Best channel for mechanical students
excellent information in a well laid out format. thank you!
This channel is pure gold. Keep it up!
👍👍
Accent is Absolute shyt but very hood video
Good
His scene cuts remind of 90s safety videos at work and it's amazing I love it
its so funny to see him holding that cute little bitty clutch in his hands...cant get over how tiny it is
I can lift the transmission he’s using with one arm easily. It’s pretty much the opposite of the e153 I have in my MR2T.
OMG the fuiwheeu LMFAOOOO
Thank you, really good and interesting video!
Make a video on valves like free valves and others comparison
A very needed video! Thanks.
I learn something every time I watch your channel. You do a fantastic job of summing up information in a meaningful way. Really appreciate all the work you put into the content you prepare.
Clutch jobs aren’t that bad
HEY WHAT ABOUT CARBON FIBER? ITS STRONGER LIGHTER AND GRIPS HARDER THE WARMER IT GETS.
When I was working in shops doing clutch jobs, I used to ride with the customer, If they left their foot on the clutch pedal I would void the warranty, some folks would burn up the disc and pressure plate, and ruin the flywheel with in 200 miles, and some fly wheels cant be milled or turned (heat and nasty scoring) holding the clutch down in first gear was a no-no too while waiting for the traffic light to change, or not having the real seal replaced, which should be part of the job, guess you know why I dont work on customer cars any more, the same folks would run brake pads down to the rivets, and turn a brake pad change into a 500 dollar deal.
Thank you very much and good luck always
Quality content level: Epic!
I love the way you explained it
Cool!
No Multi pass? 😏
you forgot the point of metal clutches can fuse together. but still a decent video
Great and educational video, but you sound like you’re trying to keep quiet because you were talking to loud in the middle of the night and your mom told you to go to sleep but you need to finish the video.
no carbon fibre clutches ;)
Ah, this is a very welcome video! It makes it very clear that the people buying ultra aggressive (race) parts for daily driving are.... not choosing wisely. :) Of note, the company Spec has a lighter than OEM clutch pedal feel (ie. requires less foot force), despite the clamping load being higher. I previous ran a Exedy/Daiken OEM clutch in my 2006 WRX for 6 years - no issues with it, other than being 'vague' with engagement (this is expected in an OEM clutch). My transmission had to be pulled as the Exedy OEM throw out bearing was dying, I opted to have a Spec Stage 1 (organic) clutch installed. The clamping load is considerably higher and the pedal requires less effort. From the rumors that I've heard, Spec re-designs the springs in the pressure plate, and that is the result. I do not have any further details, but that rumor is validated in my experience.
This is a very helpful video, thank you.
wow this video was so complete
I could listen to hour lessons from this guy good voice and pacing with interesting subjects
what about wet vs dry ?
There are some engines that have 3 pistons and if they don't need one piston, that piston is diconnected. Suposely a L3 should have a dispositon of 240 degrees and a 2L a 360 one to be well balanced. Could you make a video explaining how they do to balance this engine that is a L3 and disconnects one piston?
Very good explanation. Well done. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Great video ! And soooo, is a sintered iron perfect for a sequential gearbox ? As smoothness isn't required because you don't use the clutch ?
In all cases I have seen, the clutch died not because of the disc material fatigue but because of the sprins
Today I learned a new name for Asbestos; Mineral Wool.
No, Asbestos and mineral wool are different.
LOL 2:45- where can I get myself an inlet manifold for my twin cam RB suited for a single 4 barrel carb my man?!? That's some funny Photoshopping!!! 🤣
Good eye! You're the second person to notice 😊
Motorcycle multi-plate wet clutch - best clutch you will ever experience ))) Funny thing - it's metal, it's multi-plate (5-7 friction plates) and the same time not that expensive - 120-200 euros for regular set. Go figure...
Dude. What happened to the long hair!?!?!
thank you, you saved bunch of money for me. Because i thought sport oriented clutches wear much slower. Seems that's the opposite and i wouldn't sacrifice smoothness in my daily car. So im sticking with organic option
Thank you for the explanation
Wish I could figure out why the clutch engagement in my B15 Sentra is anything but gradual. I swear it goes from "just starting to bite" to "full grab" if I merely THINK about letting the pedal out. Edit: Whoa... Wonder if the previous owner had a sintered iron clutch installed for some reason. It certainly feels like an on-off switch lol
Dang centered clutches.. 🤙
@driving 4 answers I never thought of that. For what it's worth, occasionally I will give the clutch a 2-second burn, and it seems to take away some of that harsh, sudden engagement. It is likely placebo, though, and I know I shouldn't do that to it lol
It could be because it's very worn. I highly doubt there's an iron disc in there. It would be the ultimate prank tho 🤣
So satisfying to see your subscriber count sky rocket and sponsors jump on board! Fantastic video as always. P.S. Organic is clearly the best because the strength chart looks like a Star Trek symbol. ;)
awesome dude thanks!!!
good job
Driving 4 answers > Engineering Explained change my mind
17:40 it can be bigger than flywheel or pressure plates. Cub cadet did it in 60's. It's an exception so bear with me. Have the organic or Kevlar material be a thick disk with a center hole and 3 oem or 6 aftermarket holes drilled around outer edges that ride on pins so it can slide back and forth on driver. Driver connected to flywheel directly and spins at engine rmp constant. Drive shaft goes in center hole of disk and into pilot bearing on driver. On drive shaft in this order Pressure plate (roll pinned and fixed), organic fiber disk,Pressure plate (roll pin through drive shafy but cuts in pin holes of plate to allow movement) clutch arm,teaser spring( helps for smoother engagement to pre load rear pressure plate),throw out bearing,main spring,and roll pin (oem) or split lock collar (aftermarket tractor sled pulling parts). Drive shaft never moves but the small amount of play in rear pressure plate and the free float of fiber disk is enough to engage and disengage very well. This system could be used in small car applications with modifications but it's not perfect. And there is centered metal multi puck options to replace fiber disk. Works the same check out midwest super cub or vogel manufacturing to see full list of aftermarket cub cadet sled pulling parts. There are multiple kinds but the 1960's cub's have the strongest design and search for (narrow frame models) in the 70's it was changed. Oem from 60's is basically a Marcel with organic and asbestos fiber sandwiched. Or maybe mine was Delaminating it was old and glazed.
They use same methods for powered metal in many applications. It's an amazing process for faster and cheaper parts vs casting. Have to love modern production
I love this channel, you can get to know a lot of things about internals, engines that you normally wouldnt on youtube
very good video.. But you didn't explain why some pressure plates are push and some are pull type?
Ohh man... The sound of spit, saliva and other oral mucus juice from your mouth is pretty irritating to listen to. Had to stop watching since watching without sound was kind of waste of time.
Well, apart from minor errors, this is a great video. Loved the bonus info on what sintering is - although I've only really come across it as sintered bronze bearings. I've absolutely loved the info you've given here, giving me ideas about centrifugal clutches and suitable materials to use. What may surprise you though is the fact you have not included my favourite type(s) of clutch ! And that's wet ones ! Commonly multi-plate and even contactless - aka torque converters ! Cheers.
3:00 An engine upgrade is most unlikely to need a clutch upgrade. Clutches have to deal with far more power than the engine can constantly provide.
When he say's "clutch" he means 'clutch plate'. The 'clutch' consists of a clutch plate, pressure plate, spring and release mechanism.
"Transmission" exactly equals 'drive train'. Why don't these people understand this ? It is the drive train that transmits the power from a to b hence it's the 'transmission'. A gear box is a gear box - for the selection of ratios. Some vehicles have more than one gear box - let's give an example of the first gear box giving 5 ratios and the second gearbox giving 2 ratios. It would then be a 10 speed transmission.
Multi disc clutch is actually easier to slip than one disc clutch. Also it needs less clamping power than one disc. So it's more user friendly than one disc. Only down sides are weight balancing and manufacturing cost, which are exponentially higher and more difficult.
Can I ask what blessed land you were born and exist in my good friend? Mad respect for your content
As always, very helpful and very rich info about something that is rather neglected among amateur home renchers ! Thank you for this video
These types of videos are the best
I enjoy a wet multiplate clutch, because bike life 🤟🏼
@driving 4 answers thanks for replying. You made my day 🤩
@driving 4 answers nah, pit bike situation unfortunately, I'm on budget 😢. Yet still enjoyable ☺️.
Dry? Ducati life?
You are so fucking great at making videos and presenting information. I hope you have an AMAZING day good sir, thank you for producing such great content.
Is not the KandN filter of air the best in the world for my procharger? The hot oil to be filtered and used in the return system to return to the needs of the bearings, cleaned and cold.is the secret of KandN present in the empire of the oils, as it is in the Kingdoms of the atmosphere will it clean the product of the wells sucked from the deeps of the earth?sweet crude,first raw gasoline dripgas actually can be burned and used in engines,and is in the oil fields,you can go and ask and find out see.it was told to me by my friend who hired me up from big three oil field company.when he was mining gold up here.i was wondering if a KandN could be used to filter those high pressure volatiles they have to cap off when the bit strikes a pocket of it in the earth under Wyoming.
Hmmm, I have a 2019 Mazda MX-5 Miata with a dual mass flywheel. Does that mean it has the clutch without the hub springs?
Lets not forget tilton uses carbon clutches... i do belive they own a patent or trademark.
What about the Carbon Fiber clutches?
what are the odds of a boost school for twin charging? anyone? just me? cool.
I will talk about twin charging, compound setups, etc in the future, but I first need to cover all the basics.
Ah yes another gem video
Hi sir can you create a content about Nissan 350z and 370z and how iconic they are?
I think a missed disadvantage so sintered metal clutches is YOU CAN WELD THEM TO YOUR FLYWHEEL. The lighter pressure plates sometimes found can lead to engagement slippage which super heats the surface of the disk, and when it cools, sticks to the flywheel and pressure plate.
Next do a video on torque converters and the difference between stock and street and strip, to full racing.
Thinking of replacing my automatic 1985 300zx with a manual transmission, and upgrading the engine to about 400HP to the wheels. Plan on driving around town, with some spirited driving but no track, drifting or dragging. Any recommendations for a clutch?
Me clutch kicking my shitbox on semislicks, clutch springs:" please dont"
Wet clutch is king
so which one is the best for street use and still wants a bit more power than the rest
I would like to add that a hydraulic clutch system gives less driver fatigue on some of the harsher clutch plate types over mechanical.
I am sure somewhere out there, exists a carbon-carbon clutch assembly. because the whole clutch principle is almost the same as that of regular and performance disc-brakes
You didn't mention the clock clutch at the very end.... Great video as always!
A lot of the older clutch discs were asbestos, and the clutch pressure plate was the "long style"
What a great informative video .. None of that garbage "BRO" bullshit ! Big like !
I'm a big fan of the content and form of these videos but there's always a bit of offputting echo and 'mouth noise'
I thought I knew alot about clutches but dam this was a good video and I learned a few things. Keep up the good videos
I put a Hyundai Tiburon GT 6-speed manual trans in my 01 mitsubishi Diamante 3.5, it's pretty great! Solid flywheel from the stock (dual mass) Tiburon flywheel, and its a lightweight flywheel wish I would have gone heavier. I experience some clutch chatter taking off from a dead stop. I suspect the springs of the sprung hub are not strong enough for the weight of the heavy Diamante and im getting back and forth movement on engagement, between those springs and rubber drivetrain mounts. This is my strongly felt theory, I will see if my local clutch shop can do ANYTHING about heavier springs, or I may have to try a solid hub clutch disk.
@Taj Jacobs Hmmm. You have the most forgiving setup. Changing any of the friction materials will make it worse. I"m guessing OEM used a dual mass flywheel on that engine for a reason. Hard call to make. Good luck getting it sorted out.
6-states clutch shop by me does some re-rivoting of new friction material onto old hubs and does some solid hub discs and some with organic material one side and sintered metal on the opposite. I'm considering one of those. My other components were new/machined and I have no problem with runout. Currently organic material disc with sprung hub(for a tiburon).
Unless the "clutch shop" is manufacturing clutches probably not. What friction material? Were all friction surfaces refinished, or even checked for run out? Pressure plate load?
nah, electric motor bearing combo dc clutch, free rolling if not engaged
screw you, i mean that would press alot
something is not right here
but "everything keeps rollin"
does the transmission need to stop to change gears. sounds like it
why dont you use steering-assist like power transfer
Very useful. Comprehensive. Well researched. And covers the material science in depth in addition to the dynamics. Much of what is being described here about friction materials also applies to brake pads.
Hey! You tuned down on the annoying way of speaking :-D . Was I ever the only one complaining about that? :-D
Great video! And yet another one that makes me miss my 92 Prelude... and 6 puck stage 1 Competition Clutch... Take it from me, DON'T SELL YOUR PRELUDES!!!
so if release my clutch, just barely to the point where i have minimal friction and it does a hump noise, it means marcel is done for?
Very well explained and thank you for including the downsides. When modifying cars I find people tend to mention the pros but not the cons of a product. I didn't know you could get multi-plate clutch conversions, that's new to me. I don't like using the word upgrade for such things as they are also a downgrade in many ways, they're more of an alternative.
@Darian Istead Yeah I did, always had a soft spot for Evos
@Devon Strickland Cheers man. Did you see it in my car video's? lol
@Darian Istead Slightly off topic, but beautiful car man!
Yes, there are downsides but there are exceptions also. clutch choice is very difficult and good ones can be very expensive. Just because you have a twin plate doesn't necessarily mean it's always less drivable, chatters or is heavy under foot. In my instance (2.4L stroker motor in a evo TME) the stock clutch is very light, so a little extra pedal feel makes it easier to predict clutch take up, still being a sprung centre means it doesn't bang on engagement and the right friction compounds plus double the amount of friction material means it's relatively easy to drive albeit able to cope with more torque (739nm on run in tune, low boost).. My wife can drive it, and in traffic with little fuss. I was lucky, I got my clutch for free, my brother was the sales rep and they used my car as a test bed to make a capable but user friendly clutch.
@driving 4 answers Hahaha! Perfect analogy.
Carbon clutches? A panacea? Light, smooth, strong. The only downside is cost as far as I can see.
You never fail to deliver the facts, another bloody good effort mate. (A great, well researched and very informative video) 👍👍👍👍👍
What is up? A very hard working, very well researching dood is going to bring us another awesome video, that's what's up. 👍
Un exposé bien renseigné et très clair, rien à redire bravo